Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
